Cook Islands – Adagio’s Voyage

Big Fat High

After two lovely weeks in Penrhyn, we were ready to depart for the remote atoll of Suwarrow (also in the Cook Islands). But, mother nature had other plans for us. We woke up early in the morning before sunrise to get the boat ready to depart. As we were having breakfast, we decided to do one last download of weather. The forecast had changed in the last 24 hours which altered our plans completely.

The weather for the passage to Suwarrow looked fine, but the weather that would come through Suwarrow shortly after our arrival gave us a reason to reconsider our plans. The forecast was showing a large high pressure system that was going to sit down around 30 degrees south (for reference, we were currently at 9 degrees south) that the weather gurus were calling a “Big Fat High.” Although the moniker was amusing, the weather was not. The Big Fat High was going to cause what is referred to as a “squash zone” north of the BFH where the change of pressure gradients would be “squashed” together. What this means is that there were going to be strong winds blowing right through Suwarrow (and ultimately a good portion of the South Pacific) in excess of 30 kts.

Suwarrow is a low lying atoll without much protection from strong winds and waves. Around 6:00 a.m. that morning, all the boats in the anchorage that were planning to depart started chatting on the radio about rethinking the plan to leave Penrhyn. Two of the boats decided they had to leave as they had guests meeting them in Tonga in a couple of weeks and needed to start making their way west. (This is why it is hard to make plans to have guests visit!) All the other boats made the decision to stay put for the time being. Penrhyn was far enough north to be out of the forecasted squash zone, so we might as well enjoy some nice (and safe!) weather. We had no idea at the time, but that Big Fat High stuck around for another two weeks.

We made the most of our additional two weeks in Penrhyn with lots of social activities with the other boats and the locals in Te Tautua. We even had a Fourth of July BBQ on the beach. Although only a couple of the boats were American, all of the boats were eager to celebrate our national independence with a big beach bonfire and grilled meats. I think that is a universal joy!

We also got to spend some more time enjoying the natural beauty of Penrhyn. Mike had fun stalking the bonefish on the flats, and I got in quite a few good snorkeling sessions.

But, the highlight for me were finding the nesting birds that were all over the motus. I had gotten pretty good with fish identification, but I needed a little help with the birds. Thankfully, some of the other boats were better birders than I am, and they helped me identify red-tailed tropic birds, black noddies, red footed boobies, brown boobies, fairy terns, sooty terns and a few others. I learned that red-tailed tropic birds usually nest on cliff sides. Well, there are no cliffs in the low lying atoll of Penrhyn, so the birds were all nesting on the ground. That was good news for us camera happy visitors who wanted to snap pics of the beautiful birds and their fluffy little chicks!

At the end of our month in Penrhyn, the winds were finally changing. We saw a good weather window to depart and took it! But, we decided to make a detour. Although the winds looked good to Suwarrow, they also looked good to bypass Suwarrow and head all the way to Niue. Niue has been one of the places we were most looking forward to seeing in the South Pacific. We also know and have now experienced how variable the weather can be in this area. After much contemplation, we decided to skip Suwarrow and head all the way to Niue. (This ended up being a good move, as our other friends weren’t able to get a weather window to Niue after Suwarrow and instead headed to American Samoa.)

We said goodbye to the rest of the fleet who left Penrhyn and decided to stop in Suwarrow, and made our way down to Niue. This was our second seven day passage this year and definitely our best. For most of the passage, we had what another sailor called “magazine sailing.” It was easy sailing with moderate winds just aft of the beam and seas that weren’t too big or confused. We only had one 24 hour period that was less than ideal, where the wind shut down for about eight hours and then piped up to 25 knots with lots of rain. So, we were a bit soggy one night, but that’s pretty good for a seven day passage.

Finally we arrived in Niue! But, more about that next time!

~katie

Cultural Immersion

After arriving in Penrhyn, we were greeted by three different officials who came out to our boat to check us into the Cook Islands. The Cook Islands are an independent group of islands associated with New Zealand, tied politically and economically with New Zealand. Each island in the Cook Islands has its own dialect of Maori that is spoken at home and in churches, but English is taught in school. As a result, everyone speaks two languages.

After checking in and paying what are a bit hefty fees, the officials gave us info about the atoll. We were permitted to anchor in front of either of the two villages, Omoka and Te Tautua. If we wanted to go anywhere else, we would have to ask permission of the island council. In addition, there are strict rules for Sundays, which are days of rest and prayer. You are not allowed to swim, work on your boat, go fishing or basically do anything except go to church. And, there are very strict dress codes for church, including for women wearing a long skirt, shirts that cover your shoulders and a hat. We were definitely not in French Polynesia anymore!

We didn’t spend much time anchored outside of Omoka, the main village, as it is on the west side of the lagoon and the strong easterly winds made it an uncomfortable and choppy anchorage. As soon as we were cleared in, we headed across the lagoon to Te Tautua where our friends on Allora were already anchored.

We wanted to go exploring both on land and in the water, but we were told we should go introduce ourselves ashore first. Te Tautua is a very small village with only about 50 residents. We didn’t know who we needed to talk to ashore, so we stopped at a catamaran anchored nearby and asked a nice Frenchman. He immediately said we needed to talk to the pastor of the church.

Ashore we walked to the only church but found it closed. As we were walking nearby, a young man and teenage girl came out of the home next to the church and greeted us warmly. We discovered that they were the pastor’s children and that their dad was down the street where workers were being given a feast to celebrate the end of construction of a new cistern and rain catchment system. We found the group gathered around, looking exhausted from a days work, and waiting for their meals to be served. We briefly said hello and met the pastor, and then went on our way.

Later that night, the pastor and his cousin arrived at our boat and wanted to come aboard. We visited for a while and made plans for the weekend. The pastor offered to take Mike and Marcus out to a spot where they might find some bonefish and do a little fly fishing on Saturday. We were also invited (or expected) to attend his church on Sunday. He also made very clear that we were not allowed to do anything else on Sunday. It was actually “against the law” to be out in your dinghy or go swimming or basically anything. I have no idea what that actually means as there is no police or jail here.

There were about six boats in the anchorage at this point, and they said there would be a lunch for everyone after the church service. On Sunday, I got up early and baked a cake to bring. I had to dig around for a skirt long enough that was acceptable to wear to church. I did all of this a bit begrudgingly. Its a bit strange coming from our culture for it to be mandatory to attend a religious service, but when in a foreign country we always try to be courteous and sensitive to the local culture.

As we all gathered on shore to head over to the pastor’s home before church, we started seeing many local boats arrive from across the lagoon, which was a little confusing given the lecture we had been given about being out in your boat on Sunday. Then, we learned why. Apparently, one of the elderly women in the village had died in the early hours of the morning. There would be no church service today, as all day would be dedicated to the funeral. The boats from the other village were given an exception to the “no boats” rule in order for friends and relatives to attend the funeral.

We were all invited (or expected) to attend the funeral. I was hesitant at first as I didn’t want to be intrusive to a grieving family, but the family and friends and villagers warmly welcomed us. First, we went to the family’s home where the deceased was laid out in a simple wood coffin. The family and friends sat around as various people got up to speak (in their local language) and many songs were sung. The singing was somewhere in between organized music and wailing, with people joining in spontaneously and with a lot of emotion. It was a bit fascinating. After a couple of hours, the family walked past the body one last time before the lid was drilled onto coffin. There are no mortuary services here, and in the tropical climate, bodies are buried within 24 hours.

The coffin was then carried to the church as we followed the procession. There was a church service with more singing, and then the coffin was carried back to the home where a shallow grave had been dug for burial. The grave had been lined with a concrete form where the coffin was placed. After more singing, the family and friends disbursed while workers got ready to cover it in concrete, essentially sealing the body in a tomb underground.

We made our way around to the other side of the home where a feast had been laid out for everyone of chicken, rice, oysters and clams. There is very little produce grown in Penrhyn. By 3:00 in the afternoon, I was exhausted..and hot. We excused ourselves and made our way back to the boat to relax.

This was our first real introduction to the culture here, which was strange and new. I doubt many outsiders get to see the ritual of a funeral in this remote place. I’m thankful they included all of us to be able to witness it, despite my reservations.

The people of Penrhyn, and in particular Te Tautua, have been incredibly welcoming, treating us as guests in their village rather than visitors just passing through. We have been invited into homes, asked to attend birthday parties, visited the school to tell the kids about where we are from and even had a feast prepared in our honor. I don’t think we’ve visited anywhere else that has so immediately embraced us as part of the community. It has really been a special place to visit.

~katie

Rough Passage

We left Maupiti en route to Penrhyn in the Cook Islands on a beautiful day with perfect wind. Penrhyn is northwest of Maupiti and the eastern trade winds put the wind just aft of the beam. If the wind stayed this way the whole passage, we were in for an easy, fast, four day sail.

We got into passage mode pretty quickly, alternating our shifts overnight. We had consistent wind and hardly any squalls. I had pre-made food that made dinners easy to prepare. And, our average boat speed was pretty good for this old boat. It had all the makings of a great passage.

That all changed after a couple of days. As I was on watch, suddenly the mainsail came sliding down the mast and I hollered out to Mike as loud as I could to wake him up. We had lost the main halyard. (For non-sailors, that is the line that is used to raise our mainsail.) Mike came out and looked at me like I must have been joking until he turned around and saw the sail falling off the boom and onto the deck. I think there were a few expletives coming out of his mouth at that point.

A month earlier back in Tahiti we had noticed some chaff on the line just above where the line attaches to the sail. Mike went up the mast and thought he could see where it was chaffing at the top of the mast and came up with what he thought would fix the problem. At this point we realized that it didn’t work. We didn’t have a way to run another main halyard while at sea. In order to do that, Mike would have to climb to the top of the mast and figure out a way to run a line inside the mast that I could fish out of a hole toward the bottom. We had close to 20 kts of wind and at least a 2 meter swell that would make that impossible to do here.

We started brainstorming what we could do to try and use our mainsail. If we couldn’t use the sail, we would be sailing with just our jib which would slow us down at least a day and make it a rolly, uncomfortable ride. We have a spinnaker halyard that comes off the top of the mast, but the front of the mast, not the rear like the main halyard. Mike decided we could try and use that, but he would have to go up the mast to the spreaders to move it. I watched below helping hold the line while he put his harness on and climbed up the mast in the rolling, pitching sea.

Because the line came out the mast at the front and would have to wrap around to the rear, we weren’t going to be able to pull the mainsail to its full height. So, we got it up to the second reef point and turned back toward Penrhyn.

A day later the winds started to back off, and with our reefed mainsail we just weren’t getting enough speed. We wanted to make it to Penrhyn in daylight on Thursday. If we didn’t make it in before the sun was down, we would have to wait at sea overnight to go in through the pass on Friday morning. We were both pretty motivated to get there at this point.

Mike looked at the spinnaker halyard and thought we might be able to get the sail up to the first reef point, which would get us more sail and help us move a bit faster. We turned up into the wind and raised the sail, tightening down the first reef line. When we had turned back the direction we needed to go, we realized the foot of the sail looked a bit baggy. We don’t use the first reef point very often and decided the car needed to be moved back a bit to get a better sail shape. To get the most power out of your sail, you’ve got to have the shape of the sail right.

So, a plan was made to turn back up into the wind, release the reef line, move the car back, re-reef and then head back in the right direction. When we reef the mainsail on Adagio, we have to tie the excess sail down to the boom so it doesn’t hang down on the deck. When we turned back into the wind to fix the baggy foot of the sail, Mike released the reef line before taking the sail ties off the excess sail being held down to the boom. This was a big no-no as immediately two large tears opened up in our mainsail.

Mike realized his mistake immediately. He knows better, but mistakes can happen when you’re trying to do a bunch of things at once on a moving, rolling boat. We both screamed out when it happened, a bit in shock. Our sails are only a little over three years old and to rip big tears in them is a bit heartbreaking. Feeling a bit dejected, we put the mainsail back at the second reef point and headed toward Penrhyn.

Now, were were really ready to get there, both of us in a bit of a foul mood about the passage. We headed more up wind to try and get more speed and made it to Penrhyn just before sundown on Thursday. Luckily, after we arrived in Penrhyn, we had numerous friends offer to help us with the repairs. The main halyard was easily rerun through the mast, and we had friends on other boats willing to give us sail cloth to repair the tears in the sail.

Locals in one of the villages gave us a big, covered space we could spread the sail out to repair it. Two of our friends from other boats, Ken and Tuomo had experience repairing sails. Tuomo even worked for a sail maker in Finland. We lugged our sewing machine, sail and generator to shore and four of us worked for several hours to patch and sew the sail. I never thought I’d be sitting on a dirt floor with my sewing machine on the ground, sitting sideways so one foot could work the pedal, and be sewing a giant sail! It took all four of us to work the sail through the machine, but afterwards our sail looked good as new. The patches are hardly noticeable and really strong. Afterward, we all celebrated back on Adagio with a cold beer. Whew! Time to have some fun!

~katie